COLLECTION, ISABEL MARANT AUTOMNE-HIVER 2024
Des filles puissantes au pas certain. Parées de layers de mailles, cuirs et shearlings, c’est une version extrême de la dégaine Isabel Marant, un exercice d’adaptation des pièces signature du vestiaire à l’humeur rough-meets-sexy de la saison.
Les patines des peaux suédées comme tannées au soleil et les imposantes ceintures bijoux qui soulignent les tailles ou sertissent les bottes évoquent le voyage, les grandes plaines, des horizons désertiques.
Un esprit gaucho, dont l’homme s’accommode aussi, est renforcé par l’arrivée d’imprimés animaliers et de franges qui courent le long des manches. De grandes écharpes en suède sont perforées, cloutées, brodées de perles - et signent une attention particulière portée sur le craftsmanship.
Les matières naturelles à l’allure roots rencontrent des tissus techniques. Un rouge néon électrise la proposition et raconte la nervosité du caractère de la fille Isabel Marant. Il s’incarne aussi à travers les oscillations ardentes de la bande son du défilé, cette saison aux accents hispaniques.
Des tissus fluides et luxueux se nouent autour des hanches, des tailles et composent un flou sensuel et désirable. Entrelacées comme les torsades des mailles majeures du défilé, les jersey lurex du soir rencontrent des joncs en métal et des câbles souples recouverts de strass.
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